Preparing clients for peel season

Chemical peels can be a tool used to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance. However, their efficacy and safety are highly dependent on preparation and post-treatment care. One critical aspect of this preparation is strengthening the skin barrier and utilizing tyrosinase inhibitors to manage potential post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Understanding these components is essential for achieving optimal outcomes and minimizing adverse effects.

First, lets discuss the importance of a healthy skin barrier.  The skin barrier, comprised of the stratum corneum and lipid matrix, plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin integrity and protecting against external aggressors. A compromised barrier can lead to increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), heightened sensitivity, and exacerbated adverse reactions post-peel.

Before jumping into a chemical peel, it is imperative to fortify the skin barrier to enhance its resilience and reduce the risk of complications. This involves utilizing moisturizers which help repair the lipid barrier, incorporating products containing ceramides and fatty acids to reduce susceptibility to irritation, and implementing a tyrosinase inhibitor routine for those who are a higher fitz, or prone to PIH. 

Especially for stronger peels, and clients of a higher fitzpatrick, you will want to have them on a brightening routine at home.  Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis. During the inflammatory response post-peel, elevated melanin production can lead to PIH, characterized by dark spots and uneven skin tone. Therefore, controlling tyrosinase activity is crucial in mitigating this risk.

Tyrosinase inhibitors work by disrupting the enzymatic process of melanin formation. A few of these inhibitors may be Arbutin (a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone with similar properties but typically milder effects), Vitamin C (known for its antioxidant properties, Vitamin C also inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin synthesis while offering additional skin-brightening benefits), and Niacinamide (a versatile ingredient not only inhibits tyrosinase but also improves skin texture and reduces inflammation)

Incorporating tyrosinase inhibitors into the post-peel skincare regimen is also essential for controlling pigmentation. These agents should be used in conjunction with barrier-strengthening products to address both the immediate and long-term needs of the skin.

An integrated approach that combines barrier-strengthening techniques with tyrosinase inhibition offers a comprehensive strategy for minimizing complications and enhancing the overall efficacy of chemical peels. This approach ensures the skin is adequately prepared to withstand the negative impact on the skin's barrier while also addressing potential pigmentation issues.

Here are some of our favorite products to use pre and post peel:

KrX Mela Defense Serum + Cream 

Dermathod Priming Peel Pads